The Joy of Riads

Riad Malaika, Essaouira

I probably shouldn’t admit this, but I feel a bit sad when people tell me that they’re going to – or have been – to Morocco and they’re staying in a big old chain hotel. I don’t really love the chains at any time (OK, other than on business trips, when practicality wins), but when the local accommodation is as interesting, charming and fabulous as it is in Morocco, it seems downright wrong (unless, of course, it’s for reasons of disability or infirmity, which should go without saying, but there are plenty of lovely non-chains for that too).

Riads are simply amazing and I’d urge anyone travelling to Morocco for the first time to stay in one. They are traditional houses, built around a central courtyard or inner garden, usually with just a single door opening onto the street or alley. This is what makes them so special…you have absolutely no idea what’s behind the door. But in the case of riad hotels, generally you’ll find something pretty special. Just quickly google ‘riad marrakech’ and you’ll see what I mean.

Despite, in many cases, being pretty ancient buildings, the design is incredibly clever, as it keeps them really quite cool in summer, and helps retain heat in winter. I’ve stayed in one when it has been 45c in the daytime, and I’ve not even used the aircon.

However, if you do want to get some of the quite glorious Moroccan sun, they nearly all have roof terraces, where you can enjoy breakfast, sunbathe and take in the sunset.

They are all unique and generally run by a small team, who you’ll be able to get to know better than in any hotel (they are generally guest houses rather than full-on hotels). As such, you’ll receive the best hospitality and advice. I really do absolutely recommend them and there is one (hundreds, in fact!) for every budget, too.

One word of warning, though, not all serve alcohol, though of those that don’t, some will allow you to bring your own (so you’ll need to pop along to the closest supermarket or stock up on duty free before arrival).

Enjoy!

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